French Dining Etiquette: Both Hands on the Table Mister!

When dining in France I try to remember to keep both hands visible.

This, I’ve been told more than once, is very important.

Sometimes I forget because it’s in direct contrast to the way I’ve eaten my entire life. In the States we’re taught to place the non-dominant hand in our lap unless it’s being used to help with cutting meat, buttering bread, etc.

In France, though, it’s considered impolite and even weird to do this.

I once asked a French friend why and was surprised by her response.

The conversation went something like this:

Me: “Why is it so important to have both hands visible when dining in France?” Continue reading

Oppede-Le-Vieux: Le Petit Cafe

I have been attempting to eat my way through the entire country of France for some time now, so it would be perfectly reasonable for me to have a jaded, rather road weary attitude when it comes to French food, n’est pas?

Been there, done that, right?

Not exactly my friends.

After so many years I am still absolutely amazed at the quality of cuisine, service, and wines that can be found in the most unexpected places in this wonderful country.

Is there someone out there championing the cause of the country auberge, the bistrot de pays, the common man’s stomach?

If not, sign me up, I’m your guy.

Why am I on such a foodie high?

Simple.  My wife and I have just dined at Le Petit Cafe in the strangely charming Provencal village of Oppede Le Vieux (that’s Peter Mayle country by the way, and if he hasn’t been here he’s really missing out).

Situated on a charming corner of what appears to be the town’s only drive-able street, Le Petit Cafe is Continue reading

Sold: L’Auberge de Tourrettes

It seems one of my favorite spots in the south of France, The Auberge de Tourrettes, has been sold and is now under new management.

The news hit me like a ton of croissants.


Village view from the the back terrace

The Auberge has held the top spot on my “favorites” list for many years.
This small property on the outskirts of the village of Tourrettes sur Loup has housed my wedding guests, organized superb wine tastings, and provided me with countless delicious meals and glasses of wine.

I always looked forward to a quiet dinner on the small terrace with the ever-present aroma of fresh flowers and the sublime view of the Mediterranean across the broad Loup Valley.

Will it ever be the same?

Will the new owners continue to operate with the same attention to detail and service?

I’ll try to let you know soon….

Dining in France: 12 Tips

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1) Good food, like good wine, plays an important role in the lives of the French.  Along the Cote d’Azur dishes follow the seasons and almost always include olive oil, fish, and fresh local vegetables.

2) The French view lunch and dinner as experiences to be enjoyed and not rushed.  It’s not uncommon for a meal to last two hours or more, but once the visitor becomes accustomed to the pace, dining takes on a flavor and enjoyment all its own.

3) The French, in general, are much quieter and more reserved than Americans, especially in restaurants.

4) It’s not necessary to tip 15 or 20 percent in restaurants.  The service is always included.

5) It its acceptable to leave a small tip if you’ve been particularly pleased with your meal.

6) When you wish to order at a restaurant, close your menu.  This will indicate to your waiter that you’re ready.

7) If you find yourself becoming frustrated because the waiter has not brought your check, remember, the table is yours for as long as you want it.  He will not bring the check until you ask.  When you are ready, simply get his attention and say
“l’addition s’il vous plait.”

8) Most restaurants have their own house 
wine (la reserve).  It’s usually hand picked by the owner and of a high quality.

9) Menus usually comprise three or four courses: the entree (first course), main course, cheese, and dessert.

10) Coffee is always served after dessert.

11) An aperitif comes before your meal and a digestif after.

12) Having a drink while standing at the bar in a cafe or Brasserie is less expensive than sitting at a table and drinking.